Tucked away in Clerkenwell, the former bank turned gastronomic gem, Morchella, stands as a beacon of both taste and style. It draws the vibrant energy from nearby Exmouth Market through its opulent entrance, which is then gently mellowed by the soft, golden light cascading through its arched windows. This eatery strikes an impeccable balance between laid-back charm and refined elegance. While we can’t exactly take credit for ‘stumbling’ upon this culinary sanctuary (it’s been on our list for ages), if you do, count yourselves lucky—and good luck keeping it a secret from everyone you know.

Before diving into the good stuff—aka the food—the interiors deserve a notable mention. Before I even had the chance to marvel at the towering wine display or the theatre of the central open kitchen, we were already drafting our offers to move in. Tiered, pressed-glass chandeliers? Check. An emerald-green tiled bar practically begging for an aesthetic Instagram story close-up? Check. Menus tucked away in drawers under the tables like a grown-up game of hide-and-seek (with the prize being the restaurant’s extensive wine list)? Big check. It’s all so painfully stylish that you can almost forgive them for making you suck in every ounce of your being to begin deliberating on what appetisers to order first. All I’m saying is that I’m thankful it was the start of the meal.

But it’s not just the decor that impresses. The duo behind Perilla, the renowned modern neighborhood hotspot in Newington Green, clearly knew exactly what they were doing when they opened the doors to Morchella earlier this year. Every element in this space has a purpose, creating an ambience that’s welcoming, inspiring, and effortlessly cool. And if you’re wondering whether the food lives up to the setting, rest assured—the hype truly is as hot as its kitchen.

The Perfect Warm-Up: Dulse Focaccia

First up, Dulse Focaccia—because, let’s be honest, what’s a meal without something a little carb-y to get things started? I must clarify, this wasn’t your run-of-the-mill sourdough with a pat of butter and an artistic sprinkle of Maldon sea salt. Oh no, instead, we were greeted by a warm, pillowy focaccia, with just enough salt from the Dulse seaweed infusing its adjacent dipping oil to make you sit up and take notice. True to its Mediterranean inspiration, this dish was a reinvention—and certainly a sophisticated way to ‘dip’ into what Morchella has to offer London’s ever-expanding small-plates scene.

Salty Heroes: Cod Churros, Spanakopita, and Reimagined Vitello Tonnato

The salty delights didn’t stop there. Next up, the hotspots’ infamous trio of salt cod churros, nestled in a rich romesco sauce. Fried dough and cod might sound like an unusual pairing, but this dish perfectly defined turning humble ingredients into something along the lines of food indulgent heaven.

Alongside that, we were treated to some diddly, bite-sized spanakopita. Greek-style spinach and feta filo pies that were just the right balance of leafy greens and briny cheese, all wrapped up in a golden, buttery, and flaky embrace. The only debate we had was over how best to eat them—should we go all in, knife and fork, or participate in a polite two-biter? We quickly settled on the obvious choice: straight down the hatch.

The first bonus plate of the evening, however, called for cutlery: a twist on the dish born in the Italian region of Piedmont—Vitello Tonnato. Traditionally made with cold slices of veal smothered in what I’d consider a fussier version of 'tuna-mayo,' Morchella’s creation elevated it further, encapsulating leafy greens and a generous amount of crushed black pepper. The welcome crunch contrasted beautifully with the dish’s creamy texture, offering just the right amount of fiery kick. This small plate stood out as a cooler highlight of the meal, even more so when paired with three chilled glasses of Tuscan orange wine.

Pork Jowl & Hake, Squid

A meatier embrace came from the Pork Jowl. Slightly apprehensive knowing that this plate would simply be served as a generous slice of pig cheek, upon its arrival I was put at ease. For me, this dish alone captured the dining experience at Morchella in its entirety, promising little and completely overdelivering. Chewy, salty, smoky, and sandwiched by a layer of sour onion paste for the perfect amount of zing. Simple stuff, just done really, really well.

Bonus plate two followed shortly after: ‘Hake, Squid’. Marrying simplicity, indulgence, and a symphony of textures, pan-fried hake and its impossibly crispy skin arrived layered upon a bed of rich squid ragu beneath it. Garnished with crumb and fragrant lemon peel, comfort food at its finest.

A Balancing Act: Seaweed Beans with Smoked Ricotta and Lardo, Spring Mushroom Caesar

After indulging in so many rich dishes, it was time to balance things out with something a bit lighter. Though not something I would typically choose, both of these dishes were intriguing—a perfect harmony between earth and sea. The seaweed beans brought a gentle brininess that paired beautifully with the pepper filled with rich, smoky ricotta. And then there was the lardo: impossibly thin, almost translucent slices draped over the top, creating a true melt-in-your-mouth layer of salty, fatty goodness. Every element had been meticulously crafted, from the delicate crumb to the satisfying crunch—a sensory experience and a flavor bomb.

Next came the Spring Mushroom Caesar—a mix of raw mushrooms intertwined with classic Caesar salad greens. Earthy, fresh, and a welcomed palate cleanser, this dish offered a refreshing break from our meaty plates.

All Hail Morchella’s Megastar: Roast Lamb Ratatouille

Drum roll please for the pièce de résistance—the ‘Roast Lamb Ratatouille’. Described to novices like me simply as “lamb three ways”, this dish was a total showstopper. If Morchella can do lamb in three ways this well, I want to see lamb in all their ways. Succulent, rich, and utterly decadent, this plate had us exchanging wide-eyed look across the table. Is it possible for food to be this good? All I know is that this, right here, is why I am utterly obsessed with food. Moments like these, shared with your closest friends, need no words—just a look of mutual understanding that you’re all experiencing something truly special, and that the staff at Morchella really were feeding us so well.

A Sweet Goodbye: Tiramisu

Just when we thought we couldn’t possibly eat another bite, there’s always room for a sweet treat—especially when your two best friends fancy themselves ‘Tiramisu Connoisseurs.’ Joining my fellow Crème de la ‘Critiques,’ we sang in unison and ultimately agreed that this one was near-perfect. Lusty bitter notes from the cocoa powder and wafer-thin shards of dark chocolate were balanced by sweet, silky, and caffeinated cream. The ladyfingers? Soaked just right—firm enough to hold their shape, but soft enough to melt in your mouth. We all settled on a solid 9, maybe even a 10 after a second helping.

If there’s one takeaway from Morchella, it’s this: every part of their menu deserves to be embraced, desserts included (Strawberry and Balsamic ‘Chox’ Bun, you’re next).

The Final Word:

All in all, Morchella isn’t just another restaurant; it’s an experience—a siren call to food lovers everywhere. With its effortlessly cool ambience, thoughtful details, and incredibly friendly staff (you know who you are), it feels like home—if your cool aunt’s home was a stylish haven filled with bold art and an enviable wine collection. Morchella, you’ve officially taken the top spot on my list. I’ll be back, and I’m bringing everyone I know.

Morchella, Clerkenwell.